18. El Fin del Mundo.

The city at the end of the world, Ushuaia.

Las Trés Pingüinas: Tyson, Frances and Marianne. Lake Acigami, Tierra del Fuego National Park, Argentina.

Immediately upon our arrival at the Ushuaia airport, we were shuttled to Tierra del Fuego National Park by local tour guide, Iris, from Rumbo Sur. Iris lives in Ushuaia with her daughter. Her love of wildlife was palpable as she spotted gorgeous South American birds: the Chimango Caracara—a carrion bird—a lovely pair of Upland Geese, a Black-faced Ibis and rarer still a Crested Caracara and one Turkey Vulture. I was in heaven. I love birds. So no surprise that I count myself as one in a flock of three, Las Trés Pingüinas (see above picture). These are my wonderful traveling companions. Friend Marianne had these beautiful sport shirts embroidered with our “team” name, the name of our ship, and the year of our Antarctic cruise. ¡Bueno!

Native birds of Tierra del Fuego. Clockwise from top left: the chimanga caracara, a pair of upland geese, black-faced ibis and crested caracara.

Ushuaia is at the southern end of South America belonging to Argentina. Credit: Apple Maps

After enjoying a box lunch by the shores of Lake Acigami, we wound our way back to town making a very important stop at the southern most post office at the tip of Argentina: Correro Argentino Unidad Postal Fin del Mundo! This is a ramshackle little hut on a dock on a lake staffed by Carlos de Lorenzo, an avowed anarchist libertarian. Here one can get their passports stamped, and stamped, and stamped again with little penguins and wooden sailing ships or pay the postage and toss a postcard into the Argentine mailbox sending wishes for a safe delivery. One of our expedition crew members told us the story of mailing a postcard to his fiancé. The postcard arrived a year later long after the two split up. Ouch! You may be on my mailing list. Watch for a worn and weary postcard from Ushuaia, Argentina!

Correro Argentino Unidad Postal Fin del Mundo on the waters of Ensenada Bay, Beagle Channel.

My 8x stamped passport. That is Carlos de Lorenzo on the stamp.

Images of the little post office at the end of the world.

Credit: Google Earth with edits.

Ushuaia is a quaint town with a ski village vibe. The residents skew toward the younger set having been lured South as part of Argentina’s efforts to colonize the region and prevent Chile from claiming more land. We saw evidence of new construction and large sections of housing developments with lots of playgrounds and schools for children. Walking the downtown neighborhood, there were plenty of souvenir shops to tickle one’s fancy. Ready to meet our tour group once more, we walked toward the dock to see our ship, the MV Ultramarine! Isn’t that a fine ship?

There she is! Quark Expeditions’ MV Ultramarine at dock ready for embarkation.