27. Danco Island

Dancing with the penguins.

Watercolor sketch of Danco Island. The brown dashes are Gentoo penguins.

Danco Island was on the afternoon’s itinerary. By now, we had a rhythm going. It was second nature to dress for the cold and to suit up in full gear as soon as our adventure group, HUMPBACK, was called to the Ready Rooms.

This snow-covered hump of land was crawling with Gentoo penguins. By far, this was the largest colony we had yet to encounter. The weather was calmer and the fog bank had lifted a bit higher than usual providing more visibility. The shoreline consisted of small, round pebbles making Zodiac landing smooth and hassle-free.

Upon disembarking, we stashed our inflatable life vests into a barrel for safe-keeping while we were ashore. Trekking poles were available and steps were carved into the snow for us to climb. Penguins were everywhere. There were several smaller sub-colonies at various elevations upon the island. Penguins were criss-crossing and cross-pollinating various groupings. Two flagpoles were crossed in an X-formation indicating a penguin trail. We were required to wait and allow the penguins to pass, keeping a five-meter distance (~16 feet).

Those who wished could climb to the top of the island where a large sub-grouping of penguins congregated. Up and down their little penguin trails they went as if on a conveyor belt. Some waddled upward. Others tobogganed downward. Lots of activity on Danco Island. Penguin behavior was on full display. Mating rituals. Song trilling. Projectile pooping. Kerfuffles and spats. Impromptu huddles. Sea diving. Krill regurgitation. All in a day’s existence in Antarctica.

Pencil sketches of Gentoo penguins exhibiting common behaviors.

My sketch of Marianne waiting for the penguin conga line to pass.

Me trying to photograph penguins with an iPhone in a waterproof case.

A gallery of Gentoo penguins behaving as penguins do.

We stayed warm on the ship while these expedition crew members rode out early to set up the landing site, check for crevasses, mark the trail, chop steps into the ice and ensure our experience was amazing.