Mission Accomplished

The aftermath.

Gentoo penguins on Tower Island, Antarctic Peninsula. Photo by Frances Vandal.

I was asked recently if my expectations were met by going on this Antarctic expedition. In short, yes. I went back to one of my first blogs and reread my criteria:

1. A small ship. Check! The MV Ultramarine is rated for 199 passengers. Due to the residual effects of the COVID pandemic, only 97 passengers boarded our cruise. We had a step-up in comfort level and roominess with a staff to passenger ratio of 1.5.

2. Explore the Antarctic Peninsula. Take a jaunt through the South Shetland Islands along the way with a stop at Deception Island. Partial Check! We definitely explored the Antarctic Peninsula but did not stop in the South Shetlands. Nor did I get to visit the long-dreamed-of Deception Island. Weather and sea conditions were too hazardous to attempt a landing.

3. Lots of excursion options. I must set foot on Antarctica, must see penguins up close, must ride in a Zodiac near icebergs, would like to hear lectures from experienced scientists and guides about the wildlife and geology. Mostly Checked. Yes, I set foot on Antarctica. Yes, I saw and interacted (within a safe distance) with Adèlie, Chinstrap and Gentoo penguins. Yes, we Zodiac-cruised around icebergs and through sea ice and bergie bits; sat through many fascinating lectures on wildlife, geology, cultural anthropology and historical exploration. Did a heli-flightseeing jaunt. Twice! But I did not make the paddling excursion. And the overnight camping expedition was cut short due to weather conditions. If I went back, I’d definitely kayak and might even do the Polar Plunge!

4. Safety. Check and double Check. The conscientious staff and crew of the Ultramarine made our expedition seem effortless to us passengers. It was not. The recent Antarctic cruise deaths that took place in the Antarctic and Drake Passage on other ships about the same timeframe underscored the dangers of cruising in such a remote and wild location. Accidents happen. Tragedy strikes.

It’s hard to explain how reading books, watching documentaries, looking at photos might give you a concept of Antarctica but they are no substitute for actually being there. Smelling what cold smells like up your nostrils or penguin poop. Being surrounded by ice and water and snow and fog. Hearing the sound of Gentoo penguins swimming and splashing in the water and crying out. Feeling the crashing waves against the ship’s hull and getting tossed about when all around ocean goes on and on and on to infinity. Tasting the salty air or a bit of iceberg or the warmth of honey-ginger tea after a cold Zodiac excursion. That’s experiencing Antarctica!